How to spend a few days in
Forte dei Marmi, Italy
Located along Tuscany's Versilia coast, Forte dei Marmi, or Forte for short, is often described as Italy's version of the Hamptons. While the comparison isn't entirely misplaced (more on that below), the town feels closer in spirit to Santa Barbara, with miles of sandy beaches framed by the dramatic peaks of the Apuan Alps.
Since the early 20th century, Forte has attracted Italy's rich and famous, drawn by the region's natural beauty and pristine sandy beaches. During the summer months, the town buzzes with vacationers roaming the designer shops, boutiques, cafés, bars and restaurants, creating one of the liveliest holiday atmospheres we've encountered. And yet, what surprised us most about Forte was the contrast. Despite its glamorous reputation, the town somehow still feels relaxed, local and refreshingly unpretentious.
Get In: We spent the first part of our trip in London, so we flew to Pisa and picked up a rental car for the 30 minute drive, though you by no means need a car. You can also fly into Florence which is about an hour from Forte. If you are coming from the US, you can fly direct to Milan which is a little under three hours drive.
Stay: There are a number of hotels in and around Forte, ranging from five-star boutiques to the more affordable. We were traveling with our 6-month-old daughter, so we wanted a hotel that made it easy to stay put - and we found just that with the Hermitage Hotel. Located about a 15-minute walk from the center of town, the hotel felt like a world unto its own with its lush, spacious grounds. Highlights included a large pool, vegetable garden, and a beautiful patio restaurant where we enjoyed complimentary breakfast each morning. We loved the hotel's design and overall understated vibe, which extended to its top-tier staff who went out of their way to make sure we had everything we needed with the baby.
Beach: We checked out two of the many beach clubs in town. Our hotel had a partnership with Bagno Vittoria which we really enjoyed. For our second beach day, we wanted to find a club with a pool for our daughter and ended up at Bagno Alcione. The clubs are semi-private but they do reserve a handful of cabanas for guests. While it was somewhat quiet in late June, be sure to book ahead as they can fill up in the peak of high season.
Wednesday Market: We had been told that the market was not to be missed, and it's easy to see why. Every Wednesday, the town's central square is taken over by hundreds of merchants selling Italian-made linens, cashmeres, leather goods, etc. Despite temperatures nearing 100 degrees, we spent over an hour roaming the stalls and walked away with some great finds at very reasonable prices.
Eat: We ate (and drank) very well during our time in Forte. In addition to great meals at the hotel and beach clubs, we had several notable dinners in town. For aperitivos, Caffe Sambo is a quintessential Italian bar in the heart of town serving the best negronis and spritzes you will find anywhere. On the casual end, we had great seafood at Pesce Baracca, a local institution serving the day's catch prepared in classic Italian dishes - aperitivos on the roof overlooking the beach were a great bonus. Located in a lively square in the town center, we had an enjoyable dinner at Al Bocconcino where the people-watching rivaled the food. And lastly, Crazy Pizza, which you can now find elsewhere around Europe and even in NYC, is not to be missed - we loved the thin-style pizza and fun, friendly atmosphere.
Pietrasanta: On our last day, we spent an afternoon exploring the nearby historic town which is nestled up against the foothills of the Apuan Alps, which produce some of the finest marble in the world. Pietrasanta roots as a hub for artists dates back to the days of Michaelangelo, who famously spent time here taking advantage of the high-quality stone sourced nearby. While more relaxed than Forte, the town is lined with great boutiques and casual restaurants.
Tennis: There are several tennis clubs in and around Forte, all of which are open to guests. Our hotel booked a lesson at Tennis Club Europa which was a five-minute bicycle ride from the hotel. The club features four beautiful clay courts, a quaint clubhouse, and a welcoming staff.
Explore Beyond: One of Forte's greatest strengths is its location. A one-hour drive that winds through the dramatic Apuan Alps gives way to the rolling, cypress-lined hills of Tuscany's wine country. Pairing a few days on the coast with a few among the vineyards is a combination that's hard to beat.


